Dermo-cosmetic expertise




Immersed in the group’s pharmaceutical culture, relying on a cross-fertilization medicinal research laboratory, the researchers at Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetics have developed specific and unique expertise in the field of cosmetology. They are constantly innovating and are a dynamic source of breakthrough dermo-cosmetic solutions.


A unique combination of three major innovations

Sterile cosmetics, a unique combination in the world of three major innovations (formulation, packaging, manufacturing), meets the needs of dermatologists and pharmacists in their search for the safest and most effective solutions for the most demanding types of skin.

This new generation of skin care products, an assurance of absolute efficacy and safety for the most demanding types of skin (babies’, hypersensitive, diseased and atopic skin) is currently the only one to guarantee:

  • Products with no preservatives or preservative-like substances, containing only active substances that are absolutely essential for the skin.
  • A unique manufacturing process developed by Pierre Fabre researchers and engineers: sterilization of infusion forms as a result of sterile bulk packaging, according to current standards in the pharmaceutical industry.
  • The sterility of the product throughout its use thanks to DEFI, the Exclusive Intact Formula Device, a patented packaging system. DEFI makes it possible to maintain the sterility of the dermo-cosmetic product, even after the tube is opened, with no risk of bacterial contamination during its use.


recherche-galenique.jpgNew pharmaceutical forms for even greater enjoyment

Our pharmacists are developing new pharmaceutical forms and textures on a daily basis. They select raw materials from those available in the Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetics catalog or those offered by our suppliers. This choice involves constantly struggling to obtain a homogenous and stable pharmaceutical form that is more enjoyable for the user. Various cosmetical forms are therefore created: emulsions, foams, lotions, sticks, powders, soaps, oils, etc.


expertises-dermo-cosmetique.jpgModels that mimic human skin

Pierre Fabre has a specialized unit for skin tissue engineering that aims to develop new dermal and epidermal models. These three-dimensional models made using human cells (fibroblasts and keratinocytes) are similar to human skin and can therefore be used for predictions. They are part of a cross-disciplinary evaluation logic: from in vitro cell studies to clinical studies in humans. The goal is to evaluate and select active substances and products for their tolerance and efficacy.


actifs-marins.jpgA renewable source of marine active substances

In order to increase our access to original natural molecules while preserving marine biodiversity, we created a mixed research team at the Oceanological Observatory at Banyuls-sur-Mer (Laboratoire Arago), in conjunction with the Pierre and Marie Curie University (Paris VI) and the CNRS (National Center for Scientific Research). This body, which specializes in microbial ecology, studies marine microorganisms, a renewable source of original biological active substances for better characterization of this still little known biodiversity. Its collection of microorganisms is part of the World Federation of Cultures Collections and contains more than 1,500 species.



evaluation.jpgDemonstrating the efficacy of dermo-cosmetic products

Our Skin Research Center located in Toulouse works on:

    • Fundamental research: understanding of the skin to characterize its mechanisms and create active substances that can address to the problems of aging, skin reactivity, barrier function and pigmentation.
  • Development of products: objectively demonstrating the efficacy of cosmetic products and dermatological treatment to support claims. Various biophysical measurement techniques (cutometry, ultrasound, dermoscopy, fringe projection, confocal microscopy, raman spectroscopy, infrared, photographs) are used in tests.


analyse-sensorielle.jpgTrained and naive panels

Sensory analysis is a series of methods enabling measurement of signs perceived by the five senses during use of a product. The creation of a sensory analysis laboratory within Pierre Fabre Laboratories dates back to the 1980s. In the field of cosmetology, “trained” user panels evaluate the perception of products in controlled laboratory conditions, while “naive” panels evaluate their acceptability (texture, aroma, effects on skin) in real conditions of use.


dermato-thermale.jpgUnderstanding the mechanism of action of thermal spring water

Managing patients with atopic dermatitis or psoriasis at the Avène hydrotherapy center has largely demonstrated its therapeutic benefits. To further research in this field and deepen our knowledge of the mechanism of action of the Avène thermal spring water, Pierre Fabre Laboratories created the Water Laboratory in 2008. One of its goals is to contribute to our understanding of scientific thermalism.